By 1922, many farmers had migrated as far south as Castroville, where the foggy, mild climate created an artichoke heaven. Today, only five counties in the United States - all in California - grow virtually our entire commercial crop. Located 20 miles north of Monterey, Castroville is a Steinbeck County town of 4,500 people and 7,000 acres of artichokes. A banner arched high above the main thoroughfare reads: "Castroville, the Artichoke Capital of the World." This optimistic claim (France, Italy, and Spain produce more) is easily forgiven. After all, 75 percent of the United States crop is cultivated there. Technically, the artichoke is the immature flower bud of a perennial thistle. It is one of the oldest foods known to man, and was already flourishing in the Mediterranean region and the Canary Islands centuries ago. Some 50 varieties of the true artichoke, cynara scolymus, are known worldwide.

The flower buds grow on stalks. Each stalk bears a primary bud positioned like a star at the top of a Christmas tree. Two or three smaller secondary buds shoot out lower on the stalk, and below these grow a handful of tertiary buds better known as babies, cocktails, or canneries. When purchasing fresh artichokes, buds should be compact and closed, although in summer and fall, flared buds are normal. Choice artichokes are evenly green and smooth. Avoid dry specimens with split leaves. Sometimes winter chokes exhibit superficial brown blisters that are caused by frost. The industry terms this harmless condition "winter-kissed". Artichokes are also available frozen, in jars or canned. The later are either preserved in brine or an oil marinade, but only the jarred varieties are local. Canned artichokes are imported. Some jars are labeled "artichoke crowns" but are actually bottoms. And to add confusion, the terms "bottoms" and "hearts" are often used interchangeably. Technically, hearts are the sweet, fleshy base of the bud with the innermost yellow-green leaves still attached. Bottoms are the same fleshy base cleaned of all leaves. Fresh artichokes should be cooked as soon as possible after purchase, but will keep refrigerated for up to a week if they are sprinkled with water and sealed in plastic bags. They should be rinsed just before cooking.

Artichokes are easily trimmed with kitchen shears. Snip off the upper third of the outer leaves. With a stainless steel knife, slice off the top quarter of the pale green cone. Rub all cut surfaces with a half lemon, then submerge the prepared artichoke into water which has had a bit of lemon juice or vinegar added. This retards oxidation and helps the bud from turning an unsightly brownish color. The fuzzy choke may be removed before or after cooking, but it's much easier after. Either way, the choke may be scooped out with a teaspoon. Most recipes suggest discarding the stems, but this is a waste of good food. A cross-section of the vegetable shows that the stem connects with the heart.

The two are almost identical in flavor. Pare and trim the stems and cook and season them along with the bottoms. It is important to steam and/or boil artichokes in stainless steel, enameled or glass pots. Any other material will discolor the chokes, as well as impart a tinny, off-flavor. When fully cooked, the bottoms are tender if pierced with a knife. Allow 20 to 25 minutes for large buds. Large artichokes may be microwaved in 5 to 7 minutes in a 600-700 watt oven. If artichokes are to be served cold, plunge them into ice water for three minutes, no longer, once they are cooked. This halts the cooking process. Drain the artichokes upside down. They will keep well, refrigerated and covered, for up to two days. Good news for dieters: a 12-ounce artichoke is a slim 25 calories, with four grams of dietary fiber, 185 milligrams of potassium and 75 milligrams of sodium. It also contains an appreciable amount of Vitamin C and no fat. Of course, the calorie count can jump off the chart if rich dipping sauces are added. Jumbo and large artichokes are wonderful for stuffing, as well as serving whole with an almost unlimited variety of dipping sauces.

Baby chokes need little trimming and are ideal for sautéing, French-frying, stir-frying, marinating whole, using in soups and stews and for roasting whole with meats as you would potatoes. Artichokes are among the most compatible inhabitants of the vegetable world. Alone, they are bland, almost tasteless. But add the robust flavors of onion, garlic, leeks, basil, parsley, rosemary, black pepper, coriander seed, grating cheese, pancetta and prosciutto, olives and olive oil or anchovies and lemon and you have the makings of an exciting dish. They are also ideally pared with beef, lamb, chicken, salmon, sole, and sausages. Get as creative as you wish. This is one food where preparation is limited only by your imagination. The recipes provided are good examples of how a few simple ingredients can transform the mild-tasting choke into a flavorful, sophisticated dish.